Mount Makalu Expedition

Trip Overview


Mount Makalu is the fifth highest mountain at 8,485 metres (27,838 ft). It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas 19 km (12 mi) southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and Tibet, China. Being one of the eight-thousanders, Expedition of Mount Makalu has been hot topic among mountain climbers. Mount Makalu is an isolated peak whose shape is a four-sided pyramid which has enriched its beauty.
Makalu has two notable subsidiary peaks. Kangchungtse, or Makalu II (7,678 m) lies about 3 km (2 mi) north-northwest of the main summit. Rising about 5 km (3.1 mi) north-northeast of the main summit across a broad plateau, and connected to Kangchungtse by a narrow, 7,200 m saddle, is Chomo Lonzo (7,804 m).
Makalu is one of the harder eight-thousanders, or is considered one of the most difficult mountains to climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock/ice climbing.
The first expedition on Mount Makalu was made by an American team led by Riley Keegan in the spring of 1954. The expedition was composed of Sierra Club members including Allen Steck, and was called the California Himalayan Expedition to Makalu. They attempted the southeast ridge but were turned back at 7,100 m (23,300 ft) by a constant barrage of storms. A New Zealand team including Sir Edmund Hillary was also active in the spring, but did not get very high due to injury and illness. In the fall of 1954, a French reconnaissance expedition made the first ascents of the subsidiary summits Kangchungtse (October 22: Jean Franco, Lionel Terray, sirdar Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa and Pa Norbu) and Chomo Lonzo (October 30: Jean Couzy and Terray).
Makalu was first summited on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco. Franco, Guido Magnone and Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa summitted the next day, followed by Jean Bouvier, Serge Coupé, Pierre Leroux and André Vialatte on the 17th. This was an amazing achievement at the time, to have the vast majority of expedition members to summit, especially on such a difficult peak. Prior to this time, summits were reached by one to two expedition members at most, with the rest of teams providing logistical support before turning around and heading home. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard route.
Makalu is considered one of the most challenging mountains to climb and requires fine technical skills.
Makalu-Barun Valley is a Himalayan glacier valley situated at the base of Makalu in the Sankhuwasabha district of Nepal. This valley lies entirely inside the Makalu Barun National Park.
Barun Valley provides stunning contrasts, where high waterfalls cascade into deep gorges, craggy rocks rise from lush green forests, and colorful flowers bloom beneath white snow peaks. This unique landscape shelters some of the last pristine mountain ecosystems on Earth. Rare species of animals and plants flourish in diverse climates and habitats, relatively undisturbed by human kind.

Outline Itinerary

    Day 01 Arrive Kathmandu, meet our representative and transfer to hotel.
    Day 02 At leisure in Kathmandu/official formality.
    Day 03 Fly to Tumlingtar & commence trek to Manebhanjang (1,160m).
    Day 04 Trek to Chichila (1600m).
    Day 05 Trek to Num (1,500).
    Day 06 Trek to Seduwa (1493m).
    Day 07 Trek to Tashi Gaon (2,200).
    Day 08 Trek to Khongma Danda (3,500m).
    Day 09 Cross Keke Pass (4,127 m) Shipton Pass, Tutu La Pass & trek to Mumbuk (3,500 m).
    Day 10 Trek to Yangle Kharka (3,687 m).
    Day 11 At rest and acclimatization.
    Day 12 Trek to Langmale (4,100m).
    Day 13 Trek to Shersong (4,700 m).
    Day 14 Trek to Makalu Base Camp (5,000 m).
    Day 15 - 41 Climb Makalu (8,463 m/27,767ft) using 4 camps above Base Camp
    Day 42 Cleaning up Base Camp (5000m).
    Day 43 Retrace back to Yangle Kharka (3,687 m).
    Day 44 Trek to Mumbuk (3500m).
    Day 45 Cross Tutu La Pass (4,000m), Shipton Pass, Keke Pass, and trek to Tashigaon.
    Day 46 Trek to Num (1500m).
    Day 47 Trek to Chichila (1600m).
    Day 48 Trek to Tumlingtar (600m).
    Day 49 Fly Tumlingtar-Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
    Day 50 At leisure in Kathmandu.
    Day 51 International departure.

    Day 01 Arrive Kathmandu, meet our representative and transfer to hotel.
    Day 02 At leisure in Kathmandu/official formality.
    Day 03 Fly to Tumlingtar & commence trek to Manebhanjang (1,160m).
    Day 04 Trek to Chichila (1600m).
    Day 05 Trek to Num (1,500).
    Day 06 Trek to Seduwa (1493m).
    Day 07 Trek to Tashi Gaon (2,200).
    Day 08 Trek to Khongma Danda (3,500m).
    Day 09 Cross Keke Pass (4,127 m) Shipton Pass, Tutu La Pass & trek to Mumbuk (3,500 m).
    Day 10 Trek to Yangle Kharka (3,687 m).
    Day 11 At rest and acclimatization.
    Day 12 Trek to Langmale (4,100m).
    Day 13 Trek to Shersong (4,700 m).
    Day 14 Trek to Makalu Base Camp (5,000 m).
    Day 15 - 41 Climb Makalu (8,463 m/27,767ft) using 4 camps above Base Camp
    Day 42 Cleaning up Base Camp (5000m).
    Day 43 Retrace back to Yangle Kharka (3,687 m).
    Day 44 Trek to Mumbuk (3500m).
    Day 45 Cross Tutu La Pass (4,000m), Shipton Pass, Keke Pass, and trek to Tashigaon.
    Day 46 Trek to Num (1500m).
    Day 47 Trek to Chichila (1600m).
    Day 48 Trek to Tumlingtar (600m).
    Day 49 Fly Tumlingtar-Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
    Day 50 At leisure in Kathmandu.
    Day 51 International departure.

What's Included ?

  1. Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on twin sharing bed & breakfast basis.
  2.     Makalu Climbing permit fee & all other applicable permits.
  3.     Internal fight tickets & cargo fees.
  4.     Cargo clearance & duties fees.
  5.     Professional High altitude climbing Sherpa depending on number of members in group, 1 Government liaison
  6.     officer backed by full BC cook, kitchen helpers.
  7.     Equipment allowance, daily wages, insurance, food and shelter for above mentioned staff, porters and Liaison officer.
  8.     All food, fuel and accommodation for member and Sherpa staffs throughout the expedition period at Base Camp &
  9.     while approaching to/from Base Camp, Complete BC     camping equipments.
  10.     Garbage & stool shipped off charges from BC.
  11.     Oxygen with mask & regulators for member & climbing sherpas.
  12.     All transfers: airport-hotel-airport and related transfers.
  13.     Agency service charge and related administrative fees.
  14.     Camping & group equipments above Base camp: tents, ropes, snow bar, rock piton, shovel, ice-screws etc…
  15.     Food & fuel above Base camp for member & climbing Sherpas.
  16.     1 Gamow bag / O2 for emergency use.
  17.     Emergency Helicopter rescue arrangements.

What is not included ?

  1. Air travel to/from Nepal.
  2.     Lunch and Dinner in Kathmandu.
  3.     Drinks, laundry, postage, telephone bills, tips, all items of personal nature.
  4.     Departure tax at Kathmandu int'l airport.
  5.     Extra high altitude Sherpa if needed.
  6.     Personal travel, high risk, accidental and medical insurance of member.
  7.     Emergency rescue evacuations.
  8.     Respective expenses if one returns earlier from the expedition due to sickness or emergency purpose.
  9.     Any extra service not mentioned herein cost inclusion.
Trip Highlights
  • Price:US $0
  • Duration: 51 Days
  • Best Seasons: April and May & October and November
  • Accomodations: Clean and well facilitate
  • Group Size: +2
  • Transportation:Airways or roadways t
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